What cotton rag paper actually is and why it matters
Cotton rag paper has been made in Britain and Europe for centuries, and the basic process hasn't changed much. It's made from cotton fibre. Usually offcuts from textile production. Rather than wood pulp, which is what most modern paper is made from. The difference shows up in how the paper feels, how it ages, and how it takes ink.
How it's made
Cotton offcuts are soaked in water until the fibres break down into a pulp. That pulp is spread onto a mould. Traditionally a wire mesh frame. And the water drains away, leaving a mat of interlocked fibres. The sheet is then pressed and dried. The resulting paper has a slightly irregular surface texture because the fibres don't align as uniformly as wood pulp fibres do in a machine-made sheet.
Small paper workshops in the UK, including a few in Somerset and the West Country, still make cotton rag paper by hand or with minimal machinery. The process is slow and the output is limited, which is why handmade cotton rag paper costs considerably more than machine-made alternatives.
How it behaves in use
Cotton rag paper is more dimensionally stable than wood pulp paper. It doesn't cockle as badly when wet, which matters if you're using fountain pen ink or watercolour. It also tends to be more durable over time: the absence of the acidic lignin found in wood pulp means it doesn't yellow and become brittle in the way that cheap paper does over decades.
For a notebook used for writing rather than drawing, the main practical difference is in how the paper takes ink. Cotton rag paper has a slightly more absorbent surface, which means fountain pen ink dries quickly and doesn't feather. Ballpoint and rollerball pens also work well. Pencil feels slightly different. Softer, with more tooth. Which some people prefer and others find unfamiliar.
What to look for on the label
'Cotton rag' and 'cotton paper' mean the same thing. '100% cotton' on a paper label indicates no wood pulp content. 'Acid-free' is a separate claim that refers to the pH of the paper and can apply to both cotton and wood pulp papers. It's worth having but doesn't tell you about the fibre source.
Weight is given in grams per square metre (gsm). For a notebook, 90-100gsm is a reasonable weight for writing paper; below 80gsm and you'll likely see show-through from ink. The notebooks in the Sunset Badger shop use 80gsm cream laid paper, which sits at the lighter end but handles most pens without issue.
Cotton rag paper is one of those materials where the extra cost is visible and tangible from the first page. Whether that matters depends on what you're writing.